Take the Scenic Route on Blackwoods Scenic Byway
With its numerous national scenic byways, charming villages and towns lining U.S. Highway Route 1 and even notable fall foliage road trips, it’s easy to take the scenic route in Maine.
The Blackwoods Scenic Byway may be among the best 12 miles of roadway in Maine. Ducking inland between two points on coastal Route 1, the byway winds between the barren summits of Tunk, Black and Schoodic Mountains, and traces the shorelines of five secluded lakes and ponds as it connects two historic villages, Franklin and Cherryfield. Roll down your windows and take in views of dense forests, still waters and granite mountains, with stretches of wild blueberry barrens opening up the landscape. In fall, the low-growing blueberry bushes turn brilliant shades of crimson, adding washes of brilliant color to the hillsides. It brings together many of Maine’s finest features, all along one stretch of scenic roadway. Here are some of the best things to explore:
Sentiers de randonnée
Tunk Mountain
Trailhead sits right on the byway, about a mile from Fox Pond. The climb to the ridge is under two miles one-way, with iron rungs up the steep sections and open ledges that look out over the ponds below to the Downeast coast.
Black Mountain
A network of trails inside Donnell Pond Public Reserved Land, with the more popular East Peak climbing to a blueberry-clad summit on open granite. Views from the top include Donnell Pond directly below, Frenchman Bay and the profile of Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park’s summits to the southwest. The longer Caribou Loop Trail from Black Mountain makes for a fantastic, roughly 10-mile hike showcasing barren, rocky summits, lush mossy forests and boggy lowlands, all with hardly any other hikers.
Schoodic Mountain
Technically a short detour off the byway via Route 183 in Sullivan, not directly on it—but the 360-degree summit views over Frenchman Bay and Mount Desert Island, plus a beach at the trailhead for cooling off after, make it worth the extra ten minutes.
Boating on Lakes and Ponds
Tunk Lake
Deep and startlingly clear, bottoming out near 222 feet—making it one of Maine’s deepest lakes. Public launch is off Route 182 about six miles west of Cherryfield. Known for lake trout and other coldwater fish species. Afternoon winds can kick up, so use caution in canoes and kayaks.
Donnell Pond
The centerpiece of the 15,000-acre public reserve, reached via Donnell Pond Road off 182. Its shoreline holds most of the reserve’s water-access campsites, so a canoe or small boat gets you to your own camp for the night. Note: These sites are in high demand on summer weekends, so plan to get there early.
Long Pond and Spring River Lake
Quieter paddling a few miles further along the byway, for anyone who wants the mountain views without the boat traffic.
Other Outdoor Activities
The Downeast Sunrise Trail
An 87-mile unpaved rail-trail (the old Calais Branch line) that crosses Route 182 near both Franklin and Cherryfield, open to biking, walking, horseback riding and cross-country skiing.
ATVs and snowmobiles
The same trail corridor doubles as a motorized route in the right seasons; the Narraguagus Trail Riders club maintains the network around Cherryfield.
Blueberry barrens and wildlife-watching
Cherryfield’s hillsides turn crimson with the harvest of Maine wild blueberries in late July and August, and bald eagles are a regular sight over the barrens along the drive.
Camping/Places to Stay
Formal lodging is thin along the byway itself—this is Maine camping country at its best. The nearest concentration of inns and hotels is in Ellsworth or Machias, both a short drive off either end.
Donnell Pond Public Reserved Land campsites
Water-access only: paddle or boat in. First-come, first-served, no fee, and each site comes with a fire ring, picnic table, and privy. Sites worth seeking out: Under the Mountain, The Thumb, Hurricane Hole, Redmans Beach and Tent Rock.
Private camps on Tunk Lake
A handful of lakeside cabins rent by the week (Taylor Camp among them), for travelers who want the lake without the tent.
Où manger et boire
Franklin Trading Post
Equal parts diner, general store and gas station, this spot in Franklin is tucked beside the Citgo on Route 182 with no sign to announce it. Think, breakfast only, 5 a.m. to 12:45 p.m., chalkboard menu and blueberry pancakes the size of the plate.
The Paisley Loon Cafe & Coffee House
Pull over for all-day breakfast, hand-built sandwiches and espresso drinks in a storefront in the middle of Cherryfield’s historic district, open daily.
This blog post was written and photographed by Cam Held of Maine the Way.