The Alna Store
A Rural Restaurant Redefining Maine Dining
Just a quarter mile up from the Sheepscot River’s winding course, where reversing falls switch direction with each tide, a small yellow general store sits at the triangular intersection of Dock Road and Alna Road: The Alna Store.
At first glance, it’s unassuming—picnic tables on a wooden deck, a gravel lot, a building that looks more like a locals’ hangout than one of The New York Times’ 50 Best Restaurants in America (2024). Inside, it’s part neighborhood market, part restaurant (a James Beard-nominated one, at that). The shelves hold Maine-grown grains, local produce, natural wine and house-made ferments, like many gourmet provision shops in Maine. But one bite of a warm, house-baked apple cider doughnut, a sip of Portland-roasted coffee or a forkful of Maine-grown grits topped with farm eggs and house-made sausage makes it clear: something special is happening here.
The Alna Store’s origin story winds across the country. Jasper Ludwig and co-founder Brian Haskins previously ran a restaurant in Arizona, but the pull back to Maine was undeniable. “Quite simply, this is home,” Ludwig says. He grew up in neighboring Newcastle, shopping at Maine farmers markets with his mother and forging relationships with the very growers who now supply the restaurant. For Ludwig, returning to Maine’s MidCoast was as personal as it was practical. “This is the community that raised me,” he says. Here, the rivers and forests, the farms and fishermen, and the food traditions are woven into small-town life.
Of course, operating in a rural town comes with quirks. Early on, even finding a linen company willing to deliver was nearly impossible. “Brian and I were washing towels at home until we could convince a supplier to come to Alna,” Ludwig remembers. And then there’s the issue of seasonality. Summer brings a crush of visitors; winter brings near silence. Balancing both is a constant challenge. To keep staff employed and farmers supported year-round, The Alna Store leans into winter events—pizza nights, wreath-making workshops, live music and themed pop-ups.
The concept they brought to The Alna Store is tailored to Maine’s seasons and constraints. “From the beginning, our goal was to harvest the seasons through preservation and fermentation,” he explains. That philosophy drives a kitchen where nearly everything is made from scratch—sourdough, ice creams, cordials, ferments, bacon, sausage and a growing pantry of preserved Maine ingredients. A night’s menu may pair seared halibut with beurre blanc and locally grown mushrooms, while also offering meatloaf with whipped Maine potatoes and house-fermented kimchi. A chicken-fried steak might sit beside handmade pasta with Maine seaweed cacio e pepe. Boston cream pie or Indian pudding may follow, alongside a Tandem cappuccino or a slushie made from seasonal bourbon eggnog. Next to an adventurous natural wine list, you’ll find Allens & Milk and a steady pour of locally brewed Pemaquid Ale. Locals pop in for eggs or greens; travelers stock up for the week ahead. Everything is curated with intention. The intention is clear: this is a place where Mainers and Manhattanites can sit side by side and feel equally at home.
Above all, Ludwig wants the experience to feel complete: “We want folks to feel welcomed, nourished and, ideally, blown away by every facet of their experience.” Scratch cooking, warm hospitality and hyper-local sourcing all aim to convey the “magic” that begins in farmers’ fields and ends on the plate. This is a beacon for what Maine dining can be: deeply local, fiercely scratch-made, community-driven, and—despite the accolades—beautifully humble.
Adventure written and photographed by Maine the Way.