Snow, Silence and Supper: Hut-to-Hut Skiing in Maine’s Winter Backcountry
Cold, crystalline snow squeaks like Styrofoam beneath the skis, the thermometer hovering near 0°F. Despite the last snowfall arriving almost two weeks ago, the forest still wears a downy coat of light, dry powder. There hasn’t been a thaw in weeks.
The freshly groomed trail rises and dips gently, twisting through evergreen forest as it parallels the shoreline of Flagstaff Lake, which sprawls across Somerset and Franklin counties. Black spruce and hemlocks lean in close, their branches sparkling in the bright February sun.
Rounding a bend, Flagstaff Lake Hut comes into view. Part of the Maine Huts & Trails system, it’s one of several off-grid eco-lodges connected by more than 50 miles of free, publicly accessible trails in western Maine. In winter, access is primarily by snowshoe or cross-country ski. Snowshoes are well suited for single-hut trips, but skis make hut-to-hut travel (typically 7 to 12 miles between huts) faster and easier. Bonus: a gear shuttle can carry your overnight load, so you can ski with just a daypack.
Despite its name, the word hut hardly does it justice. Inside the main lodge is an expansive, wood-paneled dining room beneath a vaulted ceiling, a cozy reading and game room, and a full commercial kitchen where the staff turns out hearty, deeply satisfying meals. There’s even a bathroom area with modern composting toilets (closer to a home bathroom than an outhouse) and hot showers that feel downright luxurious after a day on skis. Two additional buildings house the modest bunkrooms, with configurations ranging from private rooms to shared spaces for up to eight guests. Regardless of which room you book, be sure to bring hut shoes or slippers—warm, dry feet are a small yet cherished delight at the end of a snowy day.
Maine Huts & Trails also operates three other huts in its network: Stratton Brook Hut, set on a knoll between the Bigelow Range and Sugarloaf Mountain; Poplar Hut, perched above the confluence of South Brook and Poplar Stream; and Grand Falls Hut, which is the most remote of the group and currently undergoing renovation.
As tempting as the woodstove, a good book and a mug of hot chocolate may be, it’s worth pressing on for five more minutes to the overlook. Here, twisted, gnarled birches reach out over the frozen expanse of Flagstaff Lake, while the monolithic bulk of the Bigelow Range towers beyond—the best spot to catch sunset or moonrise over the mountains.
A biting wind soon sends everyone retreating toward the promise of dinner: chicken quesadillas with refried beans and vegetables. There’s even cold beer, wine and sodas for sale (a small but welcome indulgence in the backcountry). Later, despite the frigid temperatures, the night sky calls once more. This is among the best stargazing on the East Coast, with only the faintest glow from Quebec’s Lac-Mégantic on the horizon. Cold air brings cloudless skies, and stars burn sharply overhead. Eventually, the warmth of a sleeping bag wins out. Bonsoir, night sky.
More Hut-Style Trips in Maine
AMC Maine Wilderness Lodges
Deep in Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness, the Appalachian Mountain Club operates three seasonal lodges: Medawisla, Gorman Chairback and Little Lyford. Little Lyford and Gorman Chairback are historic sporting camps more than 140 years old, while Medawisla is a modern ecolodge. All offer hot meals, showers, saunas and groomed Nordic ski trails connecting the lodges.
Carter’s XC Ski Cabins
For a more rustic experience, Carter’s XC Ski Center in Bethel offers off-grid cabins accessible only by ski or snowshoe. Set alongside an excellent groomed trail system, they make an ideal cross-country ski retreat. Book the private, wood-fired sauna to unwind and warm up after your day in the snow.
Hidden Valley Nature Center Cabins
In Jefferson, Hidden Valley Nature Center’s cabins and yurt provide a cozy woodland base with nearly 25 miles of groomed multi-use trails radiating outward—perfect for skiers looking to design their own mini hut-to-hut adventure in central Maine.
This story was written and photographed by Cam Held, co-editor of Maine the Way, whose work documents the people, places and details that define life in Maine.